Dong Khoi Area

Downtown Saigon hosts an excellent selection of mid-range western and Asian restaurants leaving the visitor spoilt for choice -- from tom yum to tapas, salad to sushi, main courses are generally 80,000 to 150,000 dong ($5-$10).

Vietnamese
Vietnam's national dish 'pho' is easy to find. Roam in the early morning and you'll find a place to sit and slurp with the locals -- if you prefer air-con to street side, try the following.

The Pho 24 chain provides the 'high end' broth, with tasty meat slices and polished white bowls, and has more than 26 locations in the city, four or five within a two-minute walk of each other in the Dong Khoi area. Wrap & Roll is a new and novel idea again housing traditional street food in modern, air-con comfort. You can wrap your own spring rolls with your chosen fillings (fish, pork, eel and more), all from 50,000 dong.

For an exciting mix of locals, expats and tourists, and a good feed to boot, head to Quan Nuong -- a Vietnamese BBQ on the roof. This place is always packed and booking ahead for weekends is advisable. Order beef, squid, or goat and cook it up on the BBQ plate provided -- add a lotus salad and a Saigon Xanh (local lager), unbeatable!

Vietnam House and Lemongrass are sister restaurants, and both deservedly popular Vietnamese midrange restaurants. The first is a two floor venue set in an old colonial building, painted in cream and decorated with green shutters. The menu consists of three sets to choose from, and of course a wide selection of Vietnamese dishes. Just around the corner is the more intimate Lemongrass. The small but extremely popular eatery boasts traditional live music every night, adding to ambiance already created in this French style building. Popular dishes here include the spring rolls and the beef & mango salad. It's best to book ahead at weekends.

High-end Vietnamese options are excellent in District One. Splash out and try Hoi An for Hue-style cuisine in an ornate wood restaurant where dishes are immaculately presented. Also hiding in the city centre is the extremely posh Nam Phan. Set in two villas and one courtyard all walled in from passing traffic, the pricey menu is extensive. It includes dishes from the south, centre and north -- -- in other words, it's a chance to try a bit of everything.

Hoi An - 11 Le Thanh Ton. T:  (08) 823 7694 . Daily 17:30-22:45
Lemongrass – 4 Nguyen Thiep St. T: (08) 220 496. Daily: 11:00-14:30 & 17:00-21:30.
Pho 24 - 5 Nguyen Thip (and many more). T:  (08) 821 7208 . Daily 06:30-23:00
Nam Phan - 64 Le Thanh Ton. T:  (08) 829 2757 . Mon-Fri 11:00-14:00 & 17:30-22:30, Sat & Sun 17:30-22:30.
Quan Nuong - 3rd Floor, 29-31 Ton That Thiep St
Vietnam House – 93-95 Dong Khoi St. T: (08) 291623. Daily: 11:00-14:30 & 17:00-21:30.
Wrap & Roll - 62 Hai Ba Trung. T:  (08) 823 4030 . Daily 07:30-22:30


Korean & Japanese
Take a stroll down Thai Van Lung and Le Thanh Ton Sts and you'll find an abundance of Korean and Japanese restaurants. However, one of the best Korean places in Saigon is over by Diamond Plaza Shopping Centre. Called Dae Jang Geum, this is the place to enjoy Kalbi -- marinated BBQ beef cooked at the table, cut into small strips, and then wrapped inside a lettuce leaf with garlic, onion and a delicious sauce. Washed down with Korea's favourite drink, soju, expect to pay 100,000 dong per person. Heading back to the East Asian strip, Bu Ja Jib or 'rich people's house' offers a traditional Korean set menu, a good chance to sample the rich flavours of the Hermit Kingdom. The set goes for 100,000 dong.

A long standing resident on the Japanese map is The Sushi Bar which serves an excellent selection of raw fish. The small bar and upstairs eating area looks straight out of Tokyo.

Bu Ja Jib - 19 Thai Van Lung St. T:  (08) 823 1156 .Daily 9:00-22:00
Dae Jang Geum - 01 Nguyen Van Chiem St. T:  (08) 825 7974 . Daily 10:30-22:00
The Sushi Bar - 2 Le Thanh Ton. T:  (08) 823 8042 .Daily 10:00-23:30

Other Asian
When the need for a good massaman or tom yam strikes, head to Malee Thai. It's compact, cosy, and a popular Thai option with locals -- the food is excellent. If pappadams and masalas are more desired, head east to Ashoka where you'll find friendly staff and typically spicy and filling Indian fare. For something completely different, try some of Nepal's best at Chautari. Popular dishes include traditional dumplings and fried beef. The extensive menu includes set meals for 100,000, some tasty potato dishes, and also delves into Chinese and Indian grub.

Ashoka - 17/10 Le Thanh Ton St. T:  (08) 823 1372 . Daily 11:00-14:30, 16:30-22:00
Chautari - 15B4 Le Thanh Ton St. T:  (08) 8223017 . Daily 11:00-14:00, 18:00-23:00
Malee Thai - 37 Dong Du. T:  (08) 829 3029 . Daily 11:00-14:00, 18:00-22:00

Cafe & Coffee
Illy Cafe is situated in the heart of the hotel district just next to the Caravelle Hotel. If you have a taste for double espressos coupled with cream, amaretto, almond or hazelnut all served in a huge tall glass, then this is the place for you. It's also one of a growing number of comfy places that has free WiFi. Highlands Coffee, Vietnam's biggest chain of coffee shops, has a number of locations across the city. One of the more pleasant is right opposite Illy -- it backs onto the Opera House. The big draw here is the central location and the garden terrace where you can join Saigon's business elite for a cheap set lunch and an iced coffee. Another well-placed branch is just south of the cathedral. A fantastic place to while away the afternoon or evening is Creperie & Cafe, with one of the best outside seating areas in Saigon. It attracts a trendy crowd, who sit and chat gazing out over Le Duan Park. On the menu are delicious and reasonably-priced crepes with a variety of fillings including spinach and parmesan and seafood (50,000-80,000 dong) .

Creperie & Cafe - 5 Han Thuyen. T: (08) 829 911. Daily 07:00-11:00
Highlands Coffee - 7 Lam Son Square. T:  (08) 822 5017 . Daily 06:30-23:00
Illy Cafe - 11-13 Lam Son Square. T:  (08) 827 5946 . Daily 07:30-23:30

French
La Nicoise may be a little hole in the wall but the food won't disappoint. Meet the friendly French owner who speaks fluent Vietnamese and runs this restaurant with his wife. Supreme value here as steaks go from 50,000 dong -- check the board for daily specials, always traditional French food cooked to perfection. Another option is the popular Le Jardin. As the name suggests, the majority of the seating is outside in a quaint garden setting, perfect for a glass of wine in the warm evenings. The menu is a basic yet satisfying staple of meat and salad dishes.

Le Jardin - 31 Thai Van Lung. T:  (08) 8258465 . Daily 11:00-14:00 & 18:00-21:00
La Nicoise - 42 Ngo Duc Ke. T:  (08) 822 8613 . Daily 07:00-22:00

Other western
For traditional western foods there are a number of options. The Underground is a London-themed restaurant with a pub menu of burgers, chicken dishes and salads. Another option is Aussie-run sports bar Cafe Latin. Highlights here are the cheap and tasty breakfast options including beans on toast, and massive meat pies for dinner. A few doors down is Al Fresco's, which boasts jumbo ribs -- or if it's burgers you're after Black Cat has a 1.4kg big cheese & bacon monster. And that's not a typo. For Italian pizzas and pastas try the charming Santa Lucia, a romantic restaurant decorated with artwork that whisks you to Rome.

If grease is not your thing there are plenty of healthier options. Juice is so named because of its fine selection of smoothies along with an excellent menu of salads, subs and wraps. It's bright, comfy interior spread over four floors provides the perfect place to fill up and relax. Pacharan is a popular Tapas Bar -- the first real Spanish experience in Saigon. The restaurant contains four dining levels, and three bars including an atmospheric roof terrace looking out onto Lam Son Square -- definitely one of Saigon's 'in' restaurants. For yet another European flavour, try Mediterranean eatery Skewers -- the focus here is on falafel and kebabs, tasty breads and mint and garlic dips. Decorated stylishly, recommended is the upstairs seating area where you can grab a spot above the busy and interesting Thai Van Lung Street.

Opened in March 2007, Cantina Central is a stylish Mexican restaurant with a funky and comfortable upstairs eating area, also a suitable place to just hang out. It has a full range of Mexican dishes such as Burritos, Tacos and Tapas, along with some western specials such as steak. The upstairs balcony, just big enough for a small group of people, is a perfect location for an intimate glass of wine.

Al Frescos - 27 Dong Du St. T:  (08) 822 7317 .Daily 08:30-23:00
Black Cat - 13 Phan Van Dat St. T:  (08) 829 2055 . Daily 07:30-24:00
Cafe Latin - 19-21 Dong Du St. T: (08) 822636.3 Daily 08:00-24:00
Cantina Central - 51 Ton That Thiep St. T: 914 4697. Daily: 10:00-Midnight.
Juice - 49 Mac Thi Buoi. T:  (08) 829 6900 . Daily 07:30-22:00
Pacharan - 97 Hai Ba Trung. T:  (08) 825 6024 . Daily 07:00-24:00
Santa Lucia - 14 Nguyen Hue St. T :  (08) 822 6562 . Daily 09:30-22:30
Skewers - 9A Thai Van Lung. T:  (08) 822 4798 . 11:30-14:00 Mon-Sat, 18:00-23:00 Mon-Sun.
The Underground - 69 Dong Khoi St. T: (08) 829 907. Daily 10:00-24:00

Greater Saigon 

Outside the comfort of District One plenty of good eating options abound -- it's just a case of jumping in a cab or on a bike for an extra 10-20 minutes. There's the added bonus of seeing more of the city and getting out of the touristy Dong Khoi area.

Phu My Hung is Saigon's new urban area in the south of the city, a collection of modern apartment blocks, restaurants and shops -- steadily growing, it will soon become a new commercial and residential centre of the city. An interesting place to visit to get some idea of the future of Vietnam. Try some of the various eating establishments on and around Nguyen Van Linh, which include Japanese, Korean, Vietnamese and Western. One such place is The Tavern, a western style 'pub' serving traditional dishes -- popular in the evening with the expat residents in this area. Recently opened in this area is Ming Dynasty, a top-end Chinese restaurant serving Cantonese food. Ornately decorated like an opulent emperor's Beijing pad, compared to other such Chinese places the mains are an affordable price -- from around 80,000 dong.

For a wider range of Chinese options, from streetside to inside, head to District Five, otherwise known as Cholon, the Chinese part of the city. Ngan Dinh is again resplendent with imperial-style decoration, giving the restaurant a certain Chinese-tinted elegance. Choose seafood from the number of bubbling lobster and shrimp-filled tanks dotted around, or go with some regular dim sum.

Over in District Three, just a few minutes' drive from Pham Ngu Lao, is The Tandoor. Based over two floors, this is an intimate Indian restaurant with friendly staff and a variety of chicken, lamb and beef curries. Onion bajjis and naan breads are fantastic here -- also available for takeaway. If you prefer beef to basmati rice, try Texas BBQ. A nice airy restaurant and bar, this is the place to come for ribs, burgers, steaks -- there's line dancing here on Thursday nights from 20:00.

For a real Vietnamese treat, try Banh Xeo. Although still in District One it may be a little off the radar for some, tucked away in a small street near Tan Dinh Church (the big pink one). This place is always busy early evening. It's main attraction is the 'banh xeo, the 'large Vietnamese pancakes. These are deep fried with shrimp and filled with beansprouts. The menu is limited and no English version is available, despite the popularity with foreigners who often visit. However, whatever gets ordered is more than edible -- and the noisy, hectic hustle and bustle of the staff will keep you amused, especially the speed of the service and the size of the trays they attempt to balance.

Banh Xeo - Near Tan Dinh Church.
Ming Dynasty - 23 Nguyen Khac Vien St, District 7, T:  (08) 411 5555 .
Ngan Dinh - 5th Floor, Windsor Plaza, 18 An Duong Vuong St, District 5, T:  (08) 830 8888 .
Texas BBQ - 206 Pasteur St, District 3, T:  (08) 823 1459 .
The Tandoor - 103 Vo Van Tan St, District 3, T:  (08) 930 4839 .
The Tavern - SB8-1, My Khanh 2 (H4-2), Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, District 7, T:  (08) 412 0866 . Daily

Pham Ngu Lao

It's odd or perhaps not that the heart of Saigon's backpacker district has such poor food. While the area is fine for an evening of drinking, foodwise the offerings are far more ordinary. Especially along De Tham, restaurants offer the identicalmenu of plain western food or faux Vietnamese.

For pho there' are shopfronts dotted around the area, but Pho 24 on Pham Ngu Lao St is both air-con and very good with prices not that much above a streetside place. If you prefer open air, try the corner of Pham Ngu Lao and Dao Quang Dau for stock-standard fare. If you can't face another bowl of noodles for breakfast, Cappuccino on Bui Vien does good western breakfasts and excellent coffee. They're also open for lunch and dinner but we didn't try it.

Bobby Brewers is a modern looking coffee shop with a variety of seating options. Choose from the downstairs open air option, or the upstairs air-con seating area, a popular choice for local expats –- probably a combination of good coffee and cakes and the WiFi service. Bobby Brewers is famous for it's Charity Tuesdays, where proceeds go to a local childrens' charity. The menu includes American style breakfasts, baguettes and gourmet sandwiches, pasta and salads, along with a selection of Asian dishes. Bobby's also offers an alternative to Cinebox, as it has daily screenings of newly released movies starting around midday and continuing until late at night, all in its 24 seater 'cinema' on the second floor. Drop by to pick up a schedule.

Come lunch, down the alley with An Lac Temple you'll find a bunch of vegetarian places, including The Original Boddhi Tree and Hue speciality house, Lac Thien. Both have simple fare at very good prices. At the top of the laneway is long-time expat favourite La Cantina which serves Mexican fare, along with everything else. A block back on mini-hotel alley are a bunch of small places, none of which stand out, but the prices are far more reasonable than De Tham.

For good Vietnamese fare, head across Nguyen Thai Hoc St to Bao which has a wide-ranging English menu and a festive atmosphere -- try the chicken in salt. couple of similar restaurants either sideare also worth a go.

Head a bit west and you'll find A Silver Elephant on Do Quang Dau St -- we had one of the best Thai meals we've had -- ever -- here. Prices are moderate to high, but the food is outstanding. A terrific option for a splash out. For a more continental splurge, head across to Luna d'Autunno whose pizzas are excellent and well-priced considering the intimate setting. It's about a 15-minute walk from De Tham, but if you can't make it, don't fret -- they deliver.

Stella is a 'new concept Italian' restaurant and cafe with the usual Italian fare, namely pizza and pasta. It has a rather chic interior restaurant area and a pleasant streetside venue for sipping that morning cappuccino. Just opposite is Sozo, a coffee shop and bakery. Sozo has a wide selection of cookies and cakes, and all proceeds from the shop go towards staff development, education and training. As the card says, 'Sozo was established to help underprivileged Vietnamese families and their kids have a new start in life', so if you want to do your bit and enjoy some choc-chip cookies into the bargain, this is the place to come.

A Silver Elephant - 17 Do Quang Dau St, District 1, Saigon. T: [Back to top]